As mentioned in my blog post, the goal with this scheme was to create high contrast and saturation. I wanted these minis to be easily visible on the table, and to be a more yellowish green than my usual 40K Orks.
This scheme makes heavy use of an airbrush, but could be achieved without one. Replace airbrushing steps with heavy drybrushing - this will also serve to build up texture, something that we want on these grimy little grots!
Video guide:
Paints Used:
A * indicates a specific paint that should be used without substitution. All
other paints listed may be substituted if need be.
Acrylics:
- Standard:
- Army Painter Fanatic - Eternal Hunt WP3052
- Army Painter Fanatic - Dryad Bark WP3111
- Citadel Base - Morghast Bone
- Citadel Base - Rakarth Flesh
- Citadel Base - Wraithbone
- Citadel Layer - Flayed One Flesh
- Citadel Layer - Karak Stone
- Citadel Layer - Moot Green
- Citadel Layer - Screaming Skull
- Citadel Layer - Yriel Yellow
- ProAcryl - Bold Titanium White 001
- ProAcryl - Bold Pyrrole Red 003
- ProAcryl Signature Series - Orange Red S31
- Vallejo Model Color - German Camo Black Brown 70.822
- Vallejo Model Color - Leather Brown 70.871
- Vallejo Model Color - Violet 70.900
- Vallejo Model Color - Green Ochre 70.914
- Vallejo Game Color - Leather Brown 72.040
- Metallics:
-
Army Painter Fanatic - True Copper WP3184
- Citadel - Iron Warriors
- Scale 75 - Decayed Metal SC-87
- Vallejo Metal Color - Aluminium 77.701
- Vallejo Metal Color - Burnt Iron 77.721
- Washes:
-
Citadel Shade - Agrax Earthshade Gloss
- Contrast/Speedpaint:
- Citadel Contrast - Darkoath Flesh
- Citadel Contrast - Nazdreg Yellow
- Inks/Misc.:
- Green Stuff World - Amber Orange Candy Ink 1726
- Vallejo Mecha Color - Yellow Fluorescent 69.054
- Other Supplies:
- AK Diorama Series - Terrains Muddy Ground AK8017
- Any Gloss Varnish
- Any Matt Varnish
Oils:
- Abteilung 502:
- Smoke ABT005
- Other Supplies:
- Any Mineral Spirits
Instructions:
I wouldn't recommend trying subassemblies. You would only be able to keep the heads off, and fiddling with that isn't worth being able to get one of the ropes slightly easier.
We start from a black primer.
- Using an airbrush or heavy drybrush, apply Violet to the entire miniature. Try not to leave any black still showing - this violet will be our darkest shadow. This adds saturation to the miniature.
- Using an airbrush or heavy drybrush, apply Leather Brown (Game Color) to the upwards facing sections.
I enjoy the colors of the VMC paints, but they can be a bit temperamental through the airbrush. Feel free to substitute for a violet and orange-brown ink of your choice here. - Using an airbrush or heavy drybrush, apply Green Ochre to the upwards facing sections. Try to limit this to the shoulders and above - this gives a stronger value near the top of the miniature. We want to draw attention there, not to the feet.
- Using an airbrush or regular brush, apply a layer of Nazdreg Yellow contrast to the miniature. This dulls down our value, but keeps the color intensity.
- Apply thinned Moot Green to the skin. Focus more on the upwards-facing areas near the top of the miniature: the cheeks, shoulders, arms, and hands. Leave the legs and feet alone.
- Apply a second highlight of 1:1 Moot Green:Yriel Yellow. Keep this to the very top of the miniature on the most upward-facing details.
- Paint the scars with Rakarth Flesh.
- Apply a coat of gloss varnish to the miniature, followed by a wash with thinned Sepia oils. Thinned Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia would work here too. The goal is to filter the miniature to add a bit more warmth and make the darker areas darker. We don't want super heavy shadows or pooling on the top areas, but focus more on darkening down the legs and feet. Afterwards, apply a layer of matt varnish. This will be our last varnish on the miniature.
- Now we will block in the rest of the details.
Highlight the scars with Flayed One Flesh.
Apply Leather Brown (Model Color) to the thicker cords, leather loincloths and pouches, and weapon hilts, highlighting with Dryad Bark.
Basecoat the wood on the standard bearer and the club handles with Dryad Bark.
Apply Karak Stone to the tassels and knots.
Apply 1:1 Karak Stone:Dryad Bark in a stippling motion to the wooden details.
Apply Decayed Metal to the armor plating and any arm rings, as well as some of the square plates on the standard bearer.
Apply Morghast bone to the fangs and skull on the standard bearer, then highlight with Screaming Skull and Wraithbone.
- Apply 1:1 Burnt Iron:Iron Warriors to the remaining metallic details, including the weapons, instrument, and the remaining details on the standard. Highlight with a light drybrush of Aluminium mixed in. Highlight the Decayed Metal with a light drybrush of True Copper.
- Apply a wash of Darkoath Flesh contrast to all of the above details (excluding the wood on the standard bearer, the scars, the teeth, and the skull).
- Paint in the blood on the leader's sword with Bold Pyrrhole Red, Orange Red, and Amber Orange.
- Apply AK Muddy Ground to the base, dotting some areas with Yellow Fluorescent.
- After the base dries, apply Agrax Earthshade Gloss, adding some Yellow Fluorescent to the areas you previously marked.
- Paint the base rims with German Camo Black Brown.
You should now have a nice and saturated yellow-green grot. By using the violet for our shadows and highlighting with yellow instead of the traditional black and white, we keep an intense energy to the scheme that will make the models pop from a distance. This and the putrid swamp they stand in will make the grots stand out on the table.
Be sure to check out the video guide for more in-depth steps and other angles!
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